If you are looking at your Nellie Stevens or American Hollies this spring and seeing discolored leaves, you aren’t alone. However, the color of that discoloration tells a very different story about your tree’s health.
In a previous post, we discussed Why Holly Leaves Turn Yellow in the Spring—a natural process of shedding old growth. But if your hollies are sporting brittle, brown, or “scorched” outer leaves, you are likely dealing with winter burn. Understanding the difference is critical, especially if you were planning on moving, digging, or planting trees this season.
In this video, I explain how winter desiccation differs from the spring shedding process looks like on a Nellie Stevens.
What is Holly Winter Burn?
Unlike natural yellowing, which happens from the inside out, winter burn (desiccation) hits the outer edges and tips of the tree. This happens during our Mid-Atlantic winters when the ground freezes solid, but the sun and wind stay active.
The leaves continue to “breathe” out moisture, but the frozen roots can’t “drink” from the soil to replace it. The result is a dehydrated, “burnt” leaf that turns brown and brittle. It’s not a disease, it’s extreme thirst.
Quick Guide: Can I Move or Plant My Holly?
| Symptom / Situation | Diagnosis | Recommendation |
| Inner leaves turning yellow | Natural Leaf Drop | Do Not Move. Wait for the cycle to finish. |
| Outer leaf tips turning brown | Winter Burn (Stress) | Do Not Move. Focus on deep watering and recovery. |
| Tree is pushing new green buds | Spring Flush | STRICT NO PLANTING PERIOD. High risk of death for any freshly dug or relocated tree. |
| Late June – Early December | Dormancy | GREEN LIGHT. Best time for a successful harvest and transplant. |
When to Transplant Hollies: Respecting the New Leaf Regeneration Period
During the new leaf regeneration period (typically April through mid-June), you should not dig or transplant Nellie Stevens hollies because the tree is diverting all its energy to new growth. Regardless of whether your tree has winter burn or is just going through its natural spring cycle, the period between April and mid- June is the most dangerous time to dig or transplant a holly. This can cause all the leaves to drop after transplanting, and the branches remaining bare until the next “Spring Flush” due to the shock.
Important Note on “Planting” vs. “Transplanting”: This restriction isn’t just for moving a tree in your yard; it applies to any tree being freshly dug from the earth, including the field grown ( B &B – ball and burlap) trees at our farm. Because harvesting disturbs the active feeder roots during the “Spring Flush,” the risk of tree death can be significantly higher. Granted, for B & B trees, a majority of the roots are within the burlap, so there is minimual damage to roots. However, the interruption alone of digging and moving is a risk to trees’ during the “Spring Flush”.
Biological Risks of Spring Transplanting
While it may be tempting to plant during the first warm days of April, the new leaf regeneration period makes this the most volatile time for evergreens. Here is why we wait:
- The Energy Shift: Right now, your holly is pushing all its stored energy into new leaf buds and microscopic feeder roots. If you dig up the tree now, you are cutting off the energy supply it is currently exhausting to grow.
- The Transplant Shock Trap: Digging inevitably loses some of the root system. A spring holly is already “all in” on new growth. Severing roots now creates a hydration crisis.
- Fragility of New Growth: That light green spring growth is soft, full of water, and hasn’t “hardened off” yet. The vibration of a truck or trailer on the myriad of pothole-filled roads in the Baltimore and Washington Metro areas can cause the tender new foliage to wilt instantly.
How to Help a Winter-Burnt Holly Recover
If your tree is currently brown and scorched, use this recovery checklist instead of reaching for the shovel:
| Action Step | Why it Helps |
| Patience | Most winter-burnt leaves will eventually be pushed off by new green growth. |
| Deep Watering | Provide a thorough soak (drip irrigation is best) twice a week to help the roots recover. |
| Wait to Prune | Don’t cut off brown tips until the new growth has fully emerged by end of June. You may find the branch is still alive! |
| Mulching | 2-3 inches of mulch helps regulate soil temperature during erratic spring freeze-thaw cycles. |
A: No. During the New Leaf Regeneration Period (April–June), evergreens are pushing energy into new growth, making them too fragile for the stress of digging or relocating.
A: Inner yellow leaves are usually natural seasonal shedding. Brittle, brown outer tips are symptoms of winter burn (desiccation) caused by frozen roots and wind.
Planning Your Privacy Screen for 2026
While the new leaf regeneration period means we have to pause digging to protect the health of the trees, now is the ideal time to get on our installation schedule. Our fall calendar fills up quickly as the dormancy window approaches.
See our latest Green Giant Arborvitae privacy screen installation in Germantown, MD for a look at how we handle large-scale screening projects.
About the Author: Wade Pryor is a professional botanist and the founder of Pryor’s Nursery . Since 1981, he has installed over 82,000 evergreen trees, specializing in “Living Fence” privacy screens across the Mid-Atlantic region. Learn more about Wade’s expertise here.
